Saturday 5 May 2018

St Michael The Archangel's Church, Lyme Regis, Dorset



Not having visited the church before, I wasn't sure if these steps led up to the churchyard, but I decided to investigate them anyway. And they did!



This is something really special. At first view from the front, the building appears to be a Victorian rebuild, but on closer inspection of the exterior many traces of its earlier origins can be seen, such as the tantalising reveal of an arch, below.


However, the first big surprise is on entering the porch door. It isn't just a porch, but is in fact part of the original Saxon church, the remainder of the church built by the Normans circa 1120.



In the photo below can be seen the 12th century pillars. The window is known as the Coram Window, and is a memorial to Thomas Coram, a wealthy sea captain and merchant who established a Foundling Hospital after being horrified at seeing the destitution of orphan children in London.


The second surprise awaited through the door into the baptistry.  The rather stunning font is fairly modern, erected in 1846, but this part of the church is late Saxon with its original 13th century arches still visible, although now bricked up.
  



The arch between the baptistry into the present nave was the chancel arch of the Norman church. The photo below is the view looking back down into the baptistry from the nave through the arch.


The present nave was completed in 1506, consisting of an unusual upward slope from west to east towards the altar.


To the left of the nave, this north-west corner (below) makes me think of a retired sea captain's study, with its sloping roof, bookcase, nautical picture and light aspect. I almost expected to see an old fashioned brass telescope on the windowsill. The window opposite on the north wall was erected by the Geological Society of London in memory of Mary Anning, whose grave is in the churchyard.


To the south side of the baptistry entrance is the staircase leading up to the Jacobean gallery, built in 1611.




One of the things I love about this church is the light. The walls, pillars and ceiling are all painted white which, together with the light wood of the seating, creates a wonderfully spacious and welcoming feel to it.
 


Below can be seen the lovely roof bosses and angel corbels on the barrel roof of the chancel. The mural was added circa 1850 and depicts the raising of the Cross. 


After taking photos of the east end of the church, I turned around to view the nave towards the west and had my third big surprise...the impressive organ above the gallery.  A visitor to my erstwhile website kindly sent me some information about it. Built by Anton Skrabia of Slovenia, it was completed and installed in 2010. The price of £300,000 was considered well spent, as Lyme Regis is home to an organ school, which was set up due to the lack of good organists for churches. 


The beautiful pipe shades - the carved panels at the top of the pipes - were created by the local Lyme Regis artist and sculptor David West.


Two other unusual and interesting features include a beautiful bas relief angel and a carved wooden back rest, both in the photo below. The angel is the only surviving feature of the original organ, placed here when it was supplanted by one transferred to Lyme in 1939 from the demolished St Mary Major church in Exeter, which itself was supplanted by the Anton Skrabia organ.


Outside again, the gravestone below shows the resting place of Mary Anning. Born and having lived all her life in Lyme, she became world known for her recovery and scientific research of fossils, some of which can be seen in the Natural History Museum in London, and was credited with finding the first specimen of Ichthyosaurus.


And at the rear, showing the church overlooking the town.



There are so many delightful things to see and lots of amazing history, some of which I've ommitted, and some of which I missed during my visit. However, it's well worth checking out more on-line, and visiting yourself if you have the opportunity. :)



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