Chapel Street, Sidmouth, Devon

I did say at the end of my previous post that Exeter Cathedral will be next. However, there's been a change of plan as it's taking a lot longer than expected. So, to get another article out to start off the new year I've decided on this one, which is a very short, narrow and charming street full of architectural delights.

Originally called Silver Street, this small section called Chapel Street turns along a zigzag - known as a 'dog's leg' - into Chapel Road, the whole running from Church Street to the sea front. Chapel Street is the only part with interesting residential buildings along with the chapel.

The oldest buildings are this row dated circa 1500, comprising Little Cob, Tudor Cottage and Merton Cottage, seen above and below, and form a Grade II* Listed Buildings group.

Considerably restored, Tudor Cottage can be seen above, with its exterior chimney stack. All of these are constructed with stone and cob and comprise two storeys. There is very little about the exterior on the Listed Buildings register, but some retained features inside include original screens, one of which is a rare painted one dated to the reign of Henry VII.

I didn't know which are the other cottages but there is another doorway to the left of Tudor Cottage, another, brick faced cottage to the right and a further cottage next to that. I don't seem to have photos of everything, so I looked on Google Street View but couldn't see any other name plaques. 

However, I did find some interesting information in the book Life and Times in Sidmouth by Julia Creeke - which is a guide to the blue plaques in Sidmouth - and it's a typically cruck constructed Mediaeval hall house, which was both a residential and administrative centre for the manor, therefore probably somewhat older than the 16th century.  

The house was altered during Henry VII's reign to divide up the ground floor room into two separate ones and insert a first floor room above, which was when the screen was dated to. Professional restorations were made in the 1970s. It was a small hall, the largest building of its kind in Sidmouth, and the drawing in Julia Creeke's book shows the brick faced cottage to the right, therefore it's probably part of Tudor Cottage.  

Opposite the row of cottages is the Old Chapel, previously the United Reformed Church. It was still in use at the time of my visit, but is now the Sidmouth Toy & Model Museum. I did mean to go back (famous last words, lol) to visit the museum and take photos of the interior plus the other cottages, but alarmingly I couldn't get up the high step onto the bus on the way back from Lyme Regis last year and had to pull myself up by hauling on the side handhold because of worsening joint problems...which has really put me off!

Not in the Listed Building register, and because it was a non-conformist church, I'm presuming that it was built sometime circa 19th century in the Victorian Gothic style. It wasn't open on my visit in 2015. The Toy Museum was opened in 2020 and the following information is taken from their website.

"The church organ originally built in the mid-1800s continues to work and is played from time to time. The church also contains a number of plaques commemorating past lives, including those associated with the church who gave their lives in World War 1. At Christmas time the museum includes a festive display."

For more information about the museum itself, a link to their website is here.

Adjoining the church is this charming building, which may have been connected to it as a church hall, or something similar.

And in the corner by the porch is this amazing Tudor chimney. There was a plaque about it on the wall but unfortunately I didn't make a note of the info at the time. According to Street View the chimney is no longer there, and I haven't been able to discover anything about it online, unfortunately.

Then next along from the cottages is a fabulous building called Osbourne House. Not a Listed Building, but I found some info which states it to be a freehold detached property built between 1900 and 1929. The largest house in the area, it has been split into three separate residences, two of them rented out as holiday cottages.

I love the architectural details and the doors with their distinctive porticos are a pure delight. Typical of the atypical buildings of the Edwardian Age - when there was much expressive innovation heralding the new century - this has to be my favourite era of architectural interest.

The two holiday cottages are called Masons Cottage and The Masons. I don't know if that's a reference to erstwhile occupancy or just names chosen for their interest. Hopefully, the former and I'll keep on digging to see if I can find out more.

Gorgeous gate between Osbourne House and the tudor cottages.

The side elevation to Osbourne House.

And a final photo looking back up Chapel Street.

That's all I have for this fabulous street at the moment. If I'm able to go back I will add more photos and info. Things are actually getting better and I might manage the high step on the bus after all!

On that note, I did manage a 5 mile walk this week. It was my birthday and I wanted to do something nice for myself so I decided on a walk to Seaton Wetlands, which is further inland and distinct from Seaton Marshes Nature Reserve. I walked well, thoroughly enjoyed myself and, what's more, took a film of photos. They came back from the printers today so I might do the article for that next.

Meanwhile, I'm still struggling with the copious amount of photos and information for the Exeter Cathedral article. But it will be coming sometime soon, I promise, lol.

It's very almost lunchtime and I'm still in my pyjamas. I think I got a bit carried away when working on this today! ;)

 

The Shell House & Other Buildings, Polperro, Cornwall

 

Back in 1996 a friend wanted a holiday and asked me if I'd like to accompany her. She'd come into some money and I was on unemployment benefit at the time so she very kindly paid for our Bed & Breakfast and I helped out with a meal on the journey there. It was such a nice couple of days and I took photos of some of the interesting buildings we saw on our wandering around...plus a few more, which I'll add at the end.

The photos above show the harbour at low tide. Below is this enchanting entrance of a private residence with several plants in flowerpots, crab & lobster pot floats and a live macaw on a perch. The photos look the same but I took the two to show that the bird was real and had moved. 

Bearing in mind that the photos are rather old and that I was just taking them of things I liked at the time, I was surprised at how interesting some of them are historically too. That's especially true of the Shell House.

It's an amazing achievement, covering the house with shells and stones into the plasterwork and looks absolutely gorgeous. Now a Grade II Listed Building, the decorations were made by seaman Samuel Puckey circa 1937 and 1942, and is an unusual piece of folk art. The house itself was built during the early to mid 19th century, constructed with stone rubble and comprising three storeys with an external staircase up to the first floor.

The windowsills are a cornucopia of large conch shells from abroad, whereas the other shells are smaller, local ones arranged into attractive shapes and patterns. Halfway up the left side of the photo below is a depiction of the Eddystone Lighthouse, which is situated on the Eddystone Rocks off the coast of Cornwall. This looks like the first one to be built (the first of four), called Winstanley's, built in 1698 and which was swept away by a storm in 1703.

With its steep, narrow and winding streets, many of the houses and cottages are reached by steps. Most have no room for front gardens, but that hasn't deterred householders from delightfully decorating the fronts of their homes with plants, wall plaques and, especially in the case of the Shell House, with shells from all over the world.

The one below is a Grade II Listed Building called Gull Cottage, built circa mid 18th century. Containing a ground floor basement, which was either used as a fish store or stable, the living quarters are on the first floor with the main entrance reached by steps. The steps and retaining stepped wall are of stone rubble with slate treads, beautifully adorned with the house owner's potted plants.

Then there's this enchanting house called, appropriately enough, the House on Props. A Grade II Listed Building, built with rendered and painted stone rubble, it also has a delightful slate hung gable end, seen in the photo below.

According to the listing it's reputed to be 16th century but is probably early 18th century. As seen above and below, the props which give the building its name.

 

Called The Old Barkhouse, I only have one photo of this cafe, seen below. I haven't been able to find anything about the building itself, but the name Barkhouse is of Anglo-Saxon origin, meaning someone who works in a bake house. However, I vaguely remember someone saying that it was originally something to do with storing fishing tackle. Checking further I found a reference to the Bark House Fishery on the River Wye, which seems to fit the fishing reference. If anyone knows anything further a comment left below would be most appreciated. Thanks. :)

And last, but not least, is this gloriously over-the-top place to eat called Nelson's Restaurant.

It isn't a listed building but was built in 1937, replacing three 17th century cottages on this site.

And that's all I have from this great little visit, although I do have some photos from our journey down and from nearby the town, seen below.

First off, was the famous - or infamous! - pub/resturant called Jamaican Inn. Not at all like the ancient pub as described in Daphne Du Maurier's book of the same name, it's now a seriously commercial venture, with extensions. A couple of photos below, including the sign outside.

I think this next is Fowey Estuary (Fowey is pronounced Foy), where we took the ferry over the river after a little break to enjoy the views.

And some odd photos of other views, an old mine winding engine, a rock stack on a beach, taken on the way down, and another nearby beach to Polperro where my friend braved the cold, early spring sea and had a swim. Me being me, I just took some photos, lol.

And a further two which I can't place, but could either be from the journey there or above the beach near Polperro. 

There we go! Coming up shortly, an article about Exeter Cathedral, which I seem to have been working on forever. Now at last with re-scanned photos (a few times after accidentally overcooking with post-editing!) and more information than I had on my former website article.