Rougemont Castle, Exeter, Devon - Part One

 

This is an article which was partially in draft at the time of my website's demise and wasn't published. Part two was, but I needed more photos for part one and I still haven't been back to get them! I'm not sure when I'll be able to travel again but I've decided to get on with the article anyway, as I can always add any other photos later.

Originally an Anglo-Saxon fortress, it was rebuilt in 1068 to maintain Norman power over Exeter. The castle was constructed as a stone ringwork fortress and named Rougemont - red hill - because of the distinctive dark red stone in an area where an ancient volcanic plug is situated. Nothing remains of the interior buildings themselves, but the walls, gatehouse and towers are still extant, along with the north west square and round tower defences. The whole site is a Scheduled Ancient Monument, which includes the later buildings inside as well as the Castle Quarter buildings surrounding it.

The photos above are of the 11th century three-storey gatehouse. Originally having wooden floors, the top-most chamber contains two delightful and unusual triangular-headed windows showing Anglo-Saxon workmanship. The archway on the gatehouse is the oldest norman arch of non- ecclesiastical usage in existence.

The three canons at the base bear stamps from the Spanish Armada, just about discernable in the photo below. Unfortunately, on a later visit, the canons were no longer there.

And seen from the other side in the courtyard, below.

The remains include a strong set of defences comprising earthworks and an outer curtain wall, along with the square and round towers. Two of the castle walls utilised the existing town walls, which were duly strengthened.

Part of the castle wall along from the gatehouse can be seen below.

Surrounding the castle are Rougemont and Northernhay Gardens. The entrance to the latter closely follows the castle wall, which was also part of the city wall, where two of the towers can be seen.

Several years ago I tried to take photos of the Northernhay Garden castle walls and towers and was met by two guards stopping people from going in because there was a ticket-only food festival being held further along. However, after explaining what I wanted to do, they kindly allowed me to venture in a short way to take these three photos; the two above and one below. 

This one is called King John's Tower and can just about be seen on the right of the wall in the photo below. Once part of the defences it was later altered to be a gazebo when the law courts were built in 1773.

After leaving Northernhay Garden I went around the other side intending to take some close-ups of the other tower (Athelstan's). A short path up to the tower had two or three lads sat about; one of them saw me and marched towards me with purposeful strides. It might not have had anything to do with me but I didn't have a good feeling about it so I decided not to risk finding out and walked back the way I came. Not a very good day for photos, lol.

However, I have these two b&w photos, which were taken some 32 years ago, showing the square Athelstan's Tower...complete with gardener in the first one. The second can also be seen at the top of the page and is a little closer than the first.

I don't have much information about Athelstan's Tower, but apparently it does have triangular headed windows like the gatehouse, showing the Anglo-Saxon influence. Also built with various stone material, including the volcanic, with the later additions of Norman crenelations. I'll add more when I get to see it for myself. 

And some photos of the arch in the wall seen from the other side in Rougement Garden. Both Rougement and Northernhay gardens are Grade II Listed on the national Register of Historic Parks and Gardens.

Something I will be doing next year, health permitting, is to visit and take more photos of the gardens and the towers, etc, as I want to add not only to these two articles but also a separate one about the gardens and their history.

And that's just about it for Part One, apart from some photos of odd openings in the walls, below, which - as it was some time ago - I don't recall exactly where they were situated.

Part Two will be up shortly as I've already got the text with photo numbers saved to document from my former website. It will just need a bit of twiddling and tidying up and possibly some additional information. 

Cheers. :)
 

Snowdrop Dell, Gittisham, Devon

 

Some friends invited me on a jaunt in February 2016 to visit this secret dell, somewhere on the outskirts of Gittisham. It's a totally magical place and I have never seen so many snowdrops all in one area before. Afterwards we also looked around St Michael's church in the village itself (seen on the previous post).

There isn't any history or information about the actual site, to speak of, but just a fabulous hidden nature spot by a stream where thousands of snowdrops bloom in late winter/early spring. However, snowdrops themselves have a humungous amount of botanical history. A little potted version of which I've added below.

One of our most beautiful and beloved of flowers, snowdrops aren't actually indigenous to Britain. Originally from Europe and the Middle East, it was thought that the Romans brought them here. However, they were probably introduced in the early 16th century and were first recorded in 1770 as a naturalised flower in the English counties of Worcestershire and Gloucestershire.

Named Galanthus in 1753 - the name is Greek for 'milk' and 'flower' - it particularly prefers to grow in woodlands. Little copses surrounded by hedges such as this make the perfect place for them to hide in, although there are also 'snowdrop gardens' that are open to the public at this time of year with huge swathes of flowers in grassy spaces.

There is such a lot of atmosphere to this dell. A feeling of ancient woodland with old fallen trees covered in moss & lichens, several varieties of ferns indigenous to the area, a sparkling winding brook and the edge of open fieldland seen through the gaps in the hedging. 

I don't usually have people in my photos, but as the day was mainly about spending time with friends and absorbing the magic together it's really nice to include them. So there they are, below. 

Unfortunately, most of the photos came out really badly and I wasn't able to do very much in post edit. However, they are all I've got and at least it gives an idea of a fabulous little spot to enjoy these loveliest of flowers. :)

And there we go! Just a shortish one for now, which finishes the places visited in and near Gittisham. I'm not sure what's coming up next, as I'm working on a few at the moment, so that'll be a surprise for both of us, lol. And I'll see you on the next one. :)

 

St Michael's Church, Gittisham, Devon

 

Having visited the area in February 2016 with three friends on a trip out to see a special place full of snowdrops (coming up next), we stopped in the village afterwards to have a look around the church.

It's unknown when the earlier church was built but there are references to parsons in the records as early as 1244. This one was either wholly built or partly rebuilt in 1321.

Constructed with flint rubble, the central front of the church and halfway up the tower has been rendered, which I personally think doesn't do it any favours. However, it is a Grade I Listed Building and the interior is rather unusual and was quite a surprise.

I didn't have much time to take any close-up photos outside or wander all the way around. I just managed a few quick photos of the north side with its central porch and door, to the left of which is the priest's door next to a 2-light arched window (above) and the tower to the right.

I've mentioned before that if an entrance is on the north side it used to be known as the Devil's Door. We have a lot in East Devon! ;)

The lych-gate, above, was used not only as an entrance but also as a shelter and place to rest a coffin and begin the first part of the funeral service before taking it into the church. This one was erected after World War II and is also the war memorial for the village.

Delightfully and surprisingly the inside is fitted with box pews, which were added in the 18th century. Most English churches have had theirs taken out and it's very unusual to find any remaining; this is the first time I've ever come across any.

 

I'm only 5' 2 (and a half)" tall and the box pews are almost as tall as me! 

The pulpit is 19th century or early 20th century, and is a wooden drum style. I didn't manage to take a photo of it but you can just about see some of it in the above photo on the far left with its traceried panels.

With plastered walls and stone arches - including a 4-bay arcade - the wagon roofs look quite striking with their moulded ribs and carved bosses at the intersections. Some of the lovely foliage carvings on the pier capitals can be seen below.

I took more photos of the south aisle than anywhere else because of its interesting components and atmosphere.  

Looking in from the chancel, below. The choir stalls have poppyhead carvings on the ends. Nothing to do with the flower, it represents the figurehead of a ship, called the poop. In this case it has the simplest style in the form of a fleur-de-lys.

I love the way this close-up of one of the carvings came out, below. It always reminds me of M R James' story The Stalls Of Barchester Cathedral, which was the first ever BBC dramatisation of a Christmas Eve ghost story in 1971.  

The view from the western end, below. The flagstones bear memorial inscriptions on part of the floor.

The organ is on the right side in the above photos. The organ pipes, below, with their fabulous decoration of pale blue and gold. I've seen something similar on the pipes of the Methodist church in Sidmouth in blue and gold, but much plainer without the patterning.

One of the monuments on the wall of the south chancel, below, containing statues of Henry Beaumont of Combe and his wife kneeling at prayer desks. I've mentioned before that monuments aren't usually on my radar but this one was interesting and reminds me of one similar in St Michael's church in Musbury where statues of the Drake family kneel. 

Elsewhere in the church are some other interesting items, such as the circa 19th century tiled floor in the chancel, below.

The 15th century octagonal font is an absolute delight with its carved quartrefoils on the bowl.

I didn't manage to take photos of many windows, but there's a small selection below.

The ones in the south aisle have plain diamond leaded lights made with cathedral glass. The glass is slightly blurred to enable the light to come through but which helps to stop any window gazing.

And just two stained glass windows. I don't recall where they were situated, but this first one was gorgeous with its pretty orange flower on blue.

And outside again, showing two of the gravestones amongst the trees...

...and one in which the lovely thatched cottages can be glimpsed in the background.

And there we have it! Just a short one but I really didn't have time to take enough photos to do it justice. I'm glad I got around to adding the article though.

After our visit here we stopped on the way home to have lunch in the Hare and Hounds pub - ladies who lunch, lol - where I also took photos of the Farway standing stone (which you can read about here). Altogether a great chance to see some places I wouldn't normally be able to get to and enjoy a morning out with friends. :)

Snowdrops coming up shortly! :)